Primer Urethane
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Primer Urethane
The Best Windshield Replacement Portland OR
Customers are first over profits, that is why we have made a how-to guide to help you save some cash changing your own windshield before you take it in to get it changed. All we wish is to save you money. We know a lot of "Portlanders" are go-getters and usually want to experience life by the horns. What better way to start your journey than to learn how to replace your own windshield. If you live in Portland Oregon, then finding a windshield replacement Portland Oregon company is pretty easy. There are places everywhere for you to get a replacement windshield. You can even go to a junk yard and pull a windshield off of a junked car. If you take that option be sure to check the windshield for any chips or cracks. When transporting the windshield, be sure to cover it in soft blankets and other soft fabrics to prevent scraping or scratches. It is still not ready for installation if it was pulled off of another car. You will need to scrape off the existing old urethane bead down to about 1mm in depth. A razor blade works extremely well for this.
Once the above is finished, remove the plastic surround side and top moldings correctly. Be sure to not pry the clips that hold them on, these clips are tiny plastic pieces specific for the vehicle and it's molding. If you don't have any replacement clips on hand, the molding will need to be glued on. It's about $5 for the clips. There are two different kinds of clips, one is just an inch of plastic that only makes the windshield look pretty. The other is complex with plastic clips and clamps which are actually used to hold the molding in place to the windshield.
You have 2 ways to cut it out
1) Cut the urethane from the outside between the glass and the pinch-weld, a cold knife necessary. This is probably the most time consuming part of the job, but once you do it once, you'll have done it a million times. The urethane is extremely strong! Problem: The main problem with this method is when the previous installation has placed the glass close to the pinch-weld and not allowing for enough space for the blade to drag can essentially cause the windshield to shatter. Since the windshield is pressed down in certain points for proper flexibility, cutting it from the outside where there isn't enough room to cut can cause it to bow out with too much pressure and shatter. Long story short, this way is possible, but highly plausible.
2) The Pro Way: The best way to slice your old windshield out is from the inside of the car. A tool that will save you frustration is a special extended handle razor knife, which is extremely helpful with the narrow room you have to work with from inside the car. Long dragging motions should be used to cut the urethane. This job can be done even with a sharp kitchen knife. However; if you don't have the tools, and only a knife, this will take multiple hours and stressful hard work.
I can't really tell you how to cut it exactly. It's something you can only learn by practicing it. Tons of things come into play, how much pressure to put on the blade, how long the strokes should be so you don't slip and cut the dash or your head liner (that would be no good!) The pinch-weld will contain the old urethane, if it isn't at least 3mm be sure to shave it down to around that depth.
The pinch weld will have most of the urethane stuck on it. The razor will help in trimming it down.
Preparing the Pinch-Weld: Clean away any visible dirt with a brush and then you can use something like plain water. Any rusty areas or areas with loose/damaged urethane will need to be taken back to the metal. Rust problems must be fixed, otherwise rust will become a major issue. If you see areas of bare metal, be sure to primer those sections otherwise, ruse will become to form from the moisture. NO GOOD!
WARNING!! IMPORTANT!! Prepare the glass with a primer specially matched to the urethane adhesive. The reason for using a primer is to open the molecules of the frit band, which is the band that surrounds the outer perimeter of the windshield. You do this to prepare the glass to accept the molecules of the urethane. After you do this, the molding should be attached to the glass immediately.
You will need an electric caulking gun to apply the urethane. You can use a non-electric caulking gun but it makes the whole job much more difficult and more likely for leaks. Use the old urethane to help connect the new urethane. The safest place to do this is in your garage because you need to make sure that when applying the caulking there is no debris blowing around to attach onto the wet glue, it'll be a botched job if this happens. NO CONTAMINANTS!
Place the windshield in carefully aligning the top bottom and sides by sight alone. This is why you normally see professionals using suction handles since it would take two people to align it if you do it all by hand. Your vehicle may have mounting blocks for the bottom of the windshield. I recommend wearing gloves for this since the oils in your hands can contaminate the Frit band effecting the activator you sprayed on it. Any gloves used for at home mechanic work will do.
THAT's IT! If you feel you are up to the challenge take it!
!!WARNING!! I (the author) shall have neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any loss or damage caused or alleged to be cause directly or indirectly by the information contained in this article or by any information omitted from this article.
If you don't feel you can do it, CALL A PROFESSIONAL! Remember, there are plenty of windshield replacement Portland Oregon professionals, but there is only one that is the best.
About the Author
John is a retired windshield tech, visit his windshield replacement portland oregon repair site for more help. If you think that you are unable to change your windshield yourself this auto glass repair portland or business has the highest rankings. Here is an article that may further your knowledge about windshield repair portland oregon.
Painting a car at home: does my first primer coat need to be done in a clean room?
My plan:
2 coats epoxy primer
filler as necessary
lots of sanding
2 coats epoxy primer
2 coats 2K urethane primer
sanding
paint
clear
Can I do the first 2 coats outside after a wash/decrease or does any dust mean worse adherence and a less durable end result? Obviously, with all of the sanding that follows, it would be smooth, so adherence seems like the only possible problem. I will move the car inside for the post-filler/sanding steps.
Comments / Ideas?
Thanks!
decrease = degrease
I'm in Southern California. It is pretty dry here.
Its not the best idea but YES shooting a car in primer can be done outside on a nice day. Remember primer aint paint, primer flashs and drys QUICK, so its going to dry fast enough so dirt and bugs wont get in it.
I shot my camaro and my dad's firebird with primer outside in the dirt/gravel yard. Looks great, came out smooth, no dirt/grit in it. They also have been daily drove and stored outside with same primer on them for last 5 years (aint got around to paint yet)
Heres some pics of ours..
Mine right after primer, sept. 2005
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1464255700041290424UgSKAM
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1464255633041290424QASuku
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1464256096041290424fXHYSw
Nov. 2005
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1501470181041290424xcxiuX
Aug. 2006
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2264237370041290424EyXBNg
My dad's
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2915058070041290424VniTdB
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